“Yela is the epicenter of Kosrae.”
For centuries, the Yela Valley and its majestic Ka forest has been a sacred place, both respected and feared. Legends tell of little people – dwarfs – who inhabited Yela’s vast mangrove swamp and its maze-like estuaries. These little people watched over the Ka trees and served as spiritual guardians of their ancestral site.
As a hallowed habitat for unique flora and fauna, the Ka forest was accessible to few people because it was so heavily guarded. Removal of anything from the forest without permission was forbidden. Those who broke these rules faced serious consequences with punishments described as harrowing, torturous and even life-threatening.
Before Europeans came to Kosrae, some of the highest-quality sakau (the “root” of happiness) was cultivated in Yela. Whenever the King hosted a special occasion, he ordered the people of Yela to bring sakau for his guests. After harvesting, sakau was transported in outrigger canoes made from Ka trees. The canoes navigated through mangrove channels all the way to the footsteps of the King’s Palace, known as Insahruah (Lelu Ruins).
The people of Yela were known as the most skilled canoe builders of Kosrae. At a time of war, the King commanded four canoes to be carved from the biggest Ka trees in the forest. The King’s warriors then sailed these war canoes 350 miles to battle rival warriors on Ponape (now Pohnpei). Thanks to their magnificent canoes, the warriors of Kosrae won the battle … of course.
In the 19th century, Kosrae was frequented by foreign ships who came here for fresh water, lumber, fruits and vegetables. On one occasion, a whaling ship was set on fire in the Yela harbor when the locals were fighting back to resist the dominance, bullying, and harassment of the crews on board. The Kosraean men were also upset with the sailors because of the women they took for comfort and trade.
In the 1940’s, the Ka forest was decimated by the Japanese who cut down much of the forest to build government housing. At one point, the entire forest was nearly sold to a Japanese lumber company interested in the commercial potential of the Ka trees. Fortunately, the sale did not go through.
Through the 20th century, Alik Yela, the forest’s principal landowner, raised his ten (10) children in Yela. At the end of World War II, Alik and his family migrated to the nearby villager of Tafunsak to find refuge, jobs and better living standards. To purchase land in Tafunsak, they paid with ten (10) long, wide logs cut from their Ka trees. Their family’s land in Tafunsak is known as Yekasik.
Today, the Yela Ka forest is a protected conservation area. It has the world’s largest stand of Ka trees as well as many other rare and endemic species. As an open natural laboratory, it is a pristine setting for environmental research. It is also one of Kosrae’s most remarkable tourist destinations.
Although there haven’t been any sightings of the little people or their footprints for years, older generations sometimes tell stories of people drowned in the swamp, lost in the forest, or having bizarre encounters with these spiritual guardians. When you visit Yela Ka, you will be welcomed by your guide and guaranteed a safe and magical experience.
The Enchanted Forest 